Pinstripe Bike Shelf

I recently got a request to design a bike shelf. I really like the concept of displaying the bike like you would a piece of art and I wanted to ultimately come up with a design that would be as minimal in appearance as possible while still doing its job to hold up the weight of a bike.

I wanted to make the bike look like it was virtually floating on the wall. So I decided to design the piece so that the top bar sits down inside the shelf at a depth that hides the bar altogether.

I don’t actually own a bike so getting the dimensions just right was a little challenging but the owner Mike was super cool about getting me all the right dimensions so we were able to get it right. I drew a scaled version of the profile to make sure I liked the look of everything. I wanted the pinstripe detail to look just right and I ended up going with 1/2″ solid walnut with 1/8″ birch ply.

I forgot to shoot a pic of the lamination, I think I had 10 clamps on this little piece sandwiched between two pieces of laminate countertop.

I relieved the backside for the bracket as well as the front niche with a 1″ router bit. It’s a small piece so I had to make a bite-sized template for the router. Once this was all finished, I welded the bracket out of 3/4″ tube steel and 2″ x 1/8″ thick steel plate and I tested it on a wall in my house with about 70 pounds. The ultimate test was done by Mike at its new home.

Now available for purchase for $300 at my etsy shop.

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Belomo Sideboard

The Belomo sideboard is a custom piece I recently finished. After seeing some of the cool mid-centuryesque toys that the owner collected, I decided to go with something that integrates a display of these pieces. Not noticeable in this pic but in others below, this piece integrates a second small cube which was designed to hide an ac box and is built to float above the floor at the same height as the sideboard.

I wanted this piece to be solid wood and after looking for something light and clear, I came upon poplar that didn’t have the typical green tint you see frequently. After biscuiting the pieces and a lot of sanding, I had the width I needed to make the sideboard.

 A couple smaller details I added to the design was steel plate shelves and a 1/4″ reveal at the top and bottom of the piece to accent the three doors. Once all that was routed, I biscuited and glued the box together.

I wanted to keep the four front panels/door nice and simple, but add a little detail with the groove that I routed 1/8″ deep. I was able to use two saw guides as a guide for the router and it worked out really nice.

Here is a shot of the interior with the steel shelves and blum hinges ready for doors to be installed.

The next step, which showed to be pretty time consuming, was building the boxes for the niche and installing them in the cabinet. I wanted the box to be framed out within the door so I routed out 7/8″ in the outside frame, leaving 1/4″ material to frame the box. Installing these boxes to get the reveal just right was a treat, but well worth it. After all was installed, I finished it off with 5/8″ steel rod legs and a stained white on the top and edges to accent the natural oiled poplar finish of the doors and interior.

This picture shows the two piece together, the floating one afar used as a display but also to hide an ac box that wanted to be concealed.

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Upgrades to remote storage

Aliright, I’ve reworked this piece 7 or 8 times now and I finally like the overall look and function. I’ve added a nice neoprene sheeting for the backing that is anti-slip and really nice to work with. For materials, I used maple for wood and for the interior, I have steel sheet metal with a circle knockout that the remotes magnetically attach to. One other detail that I’m glad to have found nice solution for is the magnetic door, and I found just the right magnets to hold the door closed.

I’ve been using one of the prior versions for a week or so now in my living room and I really like it. It’s great to have a place for everything and also add a little wood detail to the sofa.




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DIY Firescreen

When I first moved into my house, the two fireplaces had that ugly mesh fireplace screen, rusted and dirty. I demoed the one fireplace completely but the other stayed so I decided to make a really simple glass screen. This is probably the easiest DIY you can find.

I made a quick stop to a local glass shop for a sheet of 3/8″ tempered glass with polished edges. This was a little while ago but I believe it was around $40. I then stopped by the metal shop and picked up some 2″ x 2″ aluminum L for around $10. I then glued them together with construction adhesive and clamped them to dry for a day. I added little felt pads on the bottom for easy moving around to clean.

We don’t really use this fireplace outside of lighting candles on occasion but in case we did I left a 2″ gap around the outside edge to allow for heat to escape, but you can also bring the glass out from the opening to allow for additional heat to escape.

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Armadilla!!! hide the remote!

The Armadilla is something I’ve been thinking about for some time. I don’t like to have things out…besides the necessities. In the kitchen, bathroom, living room, any room, I like it when things are stored away, out of sight. The remote controls have always bugged. There isn’t a good place for them, so they usually sit on the sofa or table. When you have one for the tv, for the dvd player, for cable, etc, 3-4 add up really quick with no place to put them. Which got me thinking about the Saddler.

I decided on making the piece out of slats backed by black canvas. Initially, I had larger, heavier slats on the backside, and lighter slats on the side that would store the remotes. I made the storage unit section out of tube steel. It was scrap and fit my original drawing dimensions so I gave it a shot.

Once the pieces were made, I put the two together with additional canvas strapping to see what it looked like.

The above image actually shows the second round, in which I changed out the larger slats on the one side and made them all 1/4″. I like the uniformity and the weight distribution still works. What I didn’t like is the box, it didn’t flow and looked out of place.

To give it a more flowing, organic look, I made the frame of the next verision more crescent shaped. I then added metal backing to see how the remotes would work on magnets as attachments to the inside of the box.

After a few more modifications and finally making an entirely new piece, I have come up with my most recent version. The exterior slats are 1/4″ ipe that I have recycled from deck scraps.

I added magnetic closers at the bottom for an easy open and close of the piece. I also added an anti-slip sheeting on the backside of the slats that keeps it firmly in place and holds the weight when remotes are inside.

The body is also made of ipe and is attached by a piece of sheet metal which allows the remotes to magnetically attach to the piece. I am test driving the first usable version out so I’m sure I’ll have some additional changes before I’m done. Below is an updated version with maples slats and a steel plate detail with 3/8″ round holes.

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Platform bed – George Nelson inspired

I recently got the opportunity to work on a bed for friend of mine. After going through a few different design ideas, we came up with a bed whose frame and legs derives from the George Nelson case study bed. I really love this design and it was fun trying to figure out the best way to build the slim line platform.

These types of designs are funny because they look so simple but it definitely took some time to figure out how to make it work. In order to make it look like 1 1/2″ board holds the weight of the bed from end to end, the structure beneath took some planning. I decided on having two cross braces and one center brace overlap and have the intersections sit on small adjustable legs that you can’t see from the sides.

The exposed sides are solid maple that is then laminated to 1 x doug fir below. The legs are made from 1/4″ steel rod and plate to model after the simplicity of the hairpin.

In order to properly carry the weight through the middle of the bed, I have a 2×6 that runs from front to back, which is sandwiched between (2) 2×6 running perpendicular to carry the weight at the sides. Both boards are 3/4″ relieved at the joint.

What I found kind of interesting in the case study design, is they have fixed hairpin legs at the intersection of these supports. Working in a lot of homes with floors that go up and down, I thought the only good solution to not have a bed that could potentially teeter toter  is adjustable feet, which I made out of 8″ bolts and flat stock.

A few additional modifications to the original design will be the hideaway drawer which will be installed on the side of the bed farthest from the rooms entry so as to not affect the transparency and lightness created without anything but legs underneath the bed. I’m also adding a headboard. Originally I was going to make a three panelled and upholstered piece but my buddy wanted to mix in some Nakashima influence so we added a  live edge Koa plank instead. Here is the final piece.

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m i c k l i s h…

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Bent plywood

I thought this was a really simple and to the point tutorial on making bent ply wood legs. It would be cool to add the jig setup construction to the tutorial so you can get the whole picture, start to finish.

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I really like the simple shape of the cube, so I wanted to make the piece as bare bones as possible. The framework is welded from 1/2 steel rod. Its definitely one of those pieces that looks simple but takes some time to ensure you come out with a sharp 90 at every angle.

I chose two separate sizes to add some contrast, both still large enough to make for a good usable area but small enough to keep a lower profile at 20″ and 16″ tall. I chose a walnut top consisting of a group of staggered 3/4″ pieces I ripped and planed with a layout that looks as if the top is floating over the cube. I welded 3/4″ clips to the top to hold the piece in place at 4 points. It looks really delicate but it is actually quite strong, adding a 3/4″ strong back to the bottom, running perpendicular to the walnut pieces for additional support.

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I thought the end game of Hangman would make a good coat/hat rack, so I wanted to give it a try.  I welded the base and post first, made of 1″ tube steel and 3/8″ 12″x base that makes for a great weight. The man is made of 1/8″x1″ flat strap and a 6″ diameter circle.

I had to detail my welds to get a nice smooth look in all areas.  I may add some additional hanging somehow but I really like the simplicity of the figure. For a good contrast I went with white and yellow.

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I’ve been working with more steel lately and this is a deviation of the Coaster Table I have made in redwood and maple. I wanted to further the idea of floating coasters with a very minimal base. This table is made of 18 1/8″ 6″x6″ steel plates, welded together.

To really minimize the legs but not sacrifice strength, I chose 1/2″ tube steel in a 90 degree z  pattern. The table is surprisingly sturdy and I’m happy with the first pass at this design. Part of me wants to add some thing wood squares to the top to accent the piece, but I also like the sleakness of just the steel.

After detailing my welds and priming, I decided to add a walnut detail to the top. The wood is solid 1/2″ walnut cut in to 5 1/2″ squares. I think it softens up the raw metal look a bit.

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Cubism for BoConcept

My latest project is a few different pieces I have designed for an attention grabbing display at the Santa Monica mall. The idea is to display a few of BoConcept’s iconic chairs in clear acrylic cubes that will be lit up from below. Since walnut is one of their main wood choices, I integrated it into the bases and catalog stand.

I built the frames out of 1×6 pine and created a light bay at the top that I painted white for maximum brightness. The boxes are 4’x4′ and the cube on top will also be 4’x4’x4′.

I then wrapped the boxes in 3/4 walnut ply. Walnut is definitely one of my favorite woods. If it was more affordable I think I would do the majority of my work in walnut. To promote the brand I have included a catalog stand that is simple and clean with matching walnut detail. I welded the base using 1/2″ steel plate, beefy so it provides a good support for the stack of catalogs above.

There was no power source when I installed the piece so it doesn’t show the illuminating bottom. Otherwise, I think they came together nicely and once they put the other chair in the cube I think it will be an attention grabbing display for BoConcept.

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Smooth wall putty coat

Smooth walls to me is a must for a clean modern look. Most homes these days are either spray textured or skip troweled, but my preference has always been for smooth walls. The alternatives are cheaper and easier to accomplish, but I think smooth is a worth while investment.

I recently putty coated a few rooms in my house so I thought I would share some quick tips. This is definitely a skill that comes with practice, but it can still be achieved with less experience, you will just have to clean and sand a lot more to get the right effect.

First thing to do is get two types of mud if you are just going over existing textured walls, all purpose mud and topping. Use all purpose on the first and possibly second coat, and topping on the next coat (its lighter and easier to sand). Use two buckets for the job, one for water and one for the mud. Mix the mud fairly light, with consistency of pudding (mud comes pre-mixed but needs to be thinned for putty coating. Work an area, putting mud on a 5’x 5′ section or greater (some like to roll on the mud). Then come back over it with your knife to smooth it out, working from one end to the other, lifing the knife just slightly on one side to keep the lines to a minimum. You just want to leave a 1/16″ + layer of mud on the wall and the first coat is gonna have bumps. If your first coat is fairly smooth, you can switch to the topping for the 2nd and final, but if your new, you may have to sand between coats or possibly do a second coat of all purpose. Ultimately you can sand any mistakes out but make sure you put a good flood light on it before paint to ensure you have a majority of the imperfections cleaned up, as different lighting and day light will show problem areas.

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This is a side table/coffee table (2-3) that I have been working on.  I got the inspiration from a finger print and thought it would make a cool looking table. I routed out the design by hand and the subtle imperfections of the human hand give it a very similar look to that of a finger print. I used a radius bit to give it a soft carved look.

The first couple rounds of the top I have done in a  smooth birch ply, but I think I will move to the final being in two woods: a solid maple and another in birch ply with a dark wood veneer. Below is a mock up of the legs in wood, but I am going to weld a few other designs in steel and see what looks best.

After playing with a few different plys, I have decided to go with a maple and walnut ply for a subtle and stark contrast. For legs, I welded 3/8″ thick steel rod to plate at 5 degrees. Being one of my first welding projects, this was fun, but once I set a jig up it wasn’t too bad. Good times with the mig welder.

I finished the tops with 3 coats of matte polyurethane.

The finish height is 20″. They make nice side tables or with 2-3 they would work for a coffee table as well.

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Chopped-up credenza

This credenza has been a fun project. I wanted to make something really long and narrow, so I came up with this design that is 7′ wide by 1′ tall. I started the project by cutting all the pieces for the doors and side panels and gluing them together. You can never have too many clamps :)

The next step was cutting all the interior pieces. I used birch ply for the top, bottom and back panels as they will not be exposed. All exposed areas will be ipe.  Below is progress of the piece, with all the panels and interior panels put together.  This is definitely one of those projects that makes me want a big shop with tools for larger scale wood work.

The doors and top panels were then installed. I used blum hinges for the doors. Since I don’t buy in the bulk, the cheapest supplier is Ikea, kinda funny. Anyhow, with some adjusting, I was able to get them to fit just right to leave room for the steel channel that will be installed between each section. The top pieces were cut to match the line of the doors, and this steel line will continue down to the legs.

Here is a shot of the interior with the door. I put vertical 1/4″ supports on the back side of the boards to ensure the glued wood doors would not become weak over time with slamming. I want to be sure it will last as it is one of my first of this type.

I recently acquired a few welders so this was my first run of welding legs and top/side details. They are made of 1″ tube steel and 1″ flat strap. Its a little tricky getting all the 90’s just right but my first run came out pretty good so I was happy. I then put a simple finish of black and clear poly over the top.  After that, the finishing sanding came and a few coats of teak oil. I ultimately want to put a lacquer for extra protection, but for now here it is.

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Coaster Din Din

This is a dining table I have been working on, kind of a continuation of my coaster coffee table. I started this project by cutting all my coaster pieces into 5 1/2″ squares and routing them for a nice detail. This material is from cutoffs of a deck project so it was nice to put them to use.

Once I had all the pieces cut, I worked out just the right pattern, cut the ply and glued the pieces to 3/4″ birch ply. I then made a template of the ply cutout for future use. Once all dry, I routed a 45 degree edge out of the ply and stained the edges dark so that the squares look like they are floating. I also added 3/16″ steel L for additional support as it is a 7′ span.

After finishing the top with teak oil, I welded legs out of 1″x3″ tube steel. This is my first run through this design and ultimately I think I’m going to change the legs to 6″x6″ to give it a little more mass. Otherwise, I really like how it turned out.

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I got a chance to make this table with my friends for a art show at the Art Institute of Pasadena. I wanted to do something we could finish in a day, so the thought of using a structural beam came to mind.

This is a Paralam used mostly for rough construction. I thought it would be the easiest way to get a good width table without laminating or jointing pieces of hardwood. We salvaged a few cuts from Dixieline for a steal. They were a bit weathered but we were able to work them back to good shape. I really like working with the Gluelam and Paralam material, it’s probably the cheapest way to get a really cool, linear looking wood grain without costing a small fortune in material.

The joint is really basic and cut it with a Skillsaw, countersunk some big 6″ deck screws at the sides, and plugged the holes with some doug fir. It turned out really clean with several coast of polyurethane and it looked cool in the art gallery.

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A tribute to Noguchi

I wish I could say I designed this one. It is one of my favorite designs but I have never seen it in Zebra wood, so with much calculation and time, I made my own. I would definitely not recommend this project unless you are ready to spend some serious time on the table, but it sure is worth it if you are ready to sacrifice some free time.

The spindles are stainess steel 3/16” and they are a nightmare to figure out. The weave is quite a complex design. I had a few pictures to go off of to try to determine how they are arranged but maybe there is a ‘how to’ on this one that could really detail how it was built.

The top turned out beautiful and I really love it. It is made of 5 pieces of zebrawood glued to a mdf base below. I would have to say that the one upset of this project is the spindles. The spindles were epoxied to the mdf bases, however they did not attached as well as I hoped. I understand why the original is done with cast iron. Ah well, you can’t win them all. The end product is great but I still need to rework the spindles.

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I’m just getting started on the kitchen remodel. Taking out everything while trying to still make the place semi-usable/livable. I started this project about a year ago with drawings of the new floor plan and shopping for all the right appliances (thank you Standards of Excellence for your twice yearly sale!)

Above is the glorious kitchen in its original form. I’m glad to see it go. The layout of the bar doesn’t make any sense on the backside, besides the fact that the kitchen is pretty gross. It does have charm though :)

Above is a shot of the kitchen with the beginnings of demolition. So far I have taken down a demising wall that separates the kitchen from the living room on the left and resupported the ceiling with two columns. I beefed them up in width for a more substantial appearance. Also I have begun demoing cabinets and installing new 3″ low voltage MR-16 can lights. I have all the appliances and fixtures and the cabinets were just delivered last week.

I’m using a Costco rolling rack to store everything temporarily and I really think it will help with the project.

Here is the latest with the project. This weekend I was able to get quite a bit accomplished (girlfriend was out of town :).  I finished installing all the can lights as well as much miscellaneous wiring. This house seems to have an abundance of junction boxes which makes moving things around much more time consuming. I also built a soffit and two columns with steel studs that will frame in the cabinets and refrigerator (the far wall). I drywalled them and now I’m just about ready to patch and putty the ceilings and walls. I still have a working kitchen but not for long.

These cabinets are in my opinion the best bang for your buck. They are Kraftmaid from Home Depot. They are solid cherry doors with a walnut stain and maple ply boxes. I have installed quite a few kitchens and baths with custom made cabinets and these are a great deal. With the right planning you can make them look custom and it is hard to tell the difference. I’m very happy with them.

I’m am very cost conscious and I looked at every option and the only thing close to these is IKEA. IKEA is definitely a little cheaper, but I believe their hardware and especially their metal drawer bases look cheap and that is the last thing I wanted. You spend probably 20% more but it is completely worth it.

All kinds of good things to report.  I finished all the patching and painted the ceilings. The back wall where the cabinets are going was tricky because I have ducting running behind them to the downstairs, but after some time I got it to work. Also had to rework the flooring, but I finally have some cabinets in on the back wall.

The wall cabinets and the island bases are set. It’s definitely exciting when it starts to look like something other than a construction site.  The lighting at the wall cabinets worked out really well and splashes the cabinets just how I wanted it to.  I had to lug the refrigerator in, not yet in place, but glad it is where it is now. 700 lbs does not move easily.  I have kept the sink operational and am gonna demo it when I’m within weeks of having the countertops ready. Much to do until then.

It’s hard to see, but I hooked up all the plumbing and electrical as well. I have outlets on each of the bases for appliances. I chose a square stainless sink and a flush glass cooktop. Gotta love the 1/2 yearly sale at Standards of Excellence and Ebay for their sale item contributions :) If you plan ahead you really can save a lot of money.

I finished installing the sink bases as well.  All the little stuff that you don’t see, plumbing, eletrical, etc really drains the hours. I”m really happy with how everything is coming together though.  It’s been a bear with all the tight tolerances, but it is definitely looking how I imagined it to look. Now that I have the bases done and rough deck down, I’m ready to get the countertops done. Almost a working kitchen.

I selected a quartz countertop for the kitchen. They are a maufactured stone and really your best bet for kitchens. I really like the sleek look of the quartz in certain colors and it really gives a great contrast to the cabinets.  Its also one of the most durable countertops you can get. I was able to get a few $100 discount by finding one remnant piece in the yard vs. buying two full slabs. I also installed all the door hardware. It would be great to keep it clean with no hardware, but it really isn’t practical for longevity on wood finishes. So I went with a ladder pull in stainless.

The kitchen is finally complete. Well, complete enough to take pictures and post it. I still have a few small things to complete, but its pretty much done. I finished most of the detailing recently, adding the aluminum cabinet base and the bar facing in the last two weekends.

The slats on the face of the bar are made of some left over ipe decking I had. They were 1×6 boards but I wanted a narrower profile so I ripped them in half. The stain on the cabinets is walnut so I stained the boards the same color and it came out pretty close in color. Lucky me. I played with the gap a little bit and found that a 1/2″ gap was best. I installed prefinished birch ply behind the slats for a nice clean look.

I centered the hood over the bar and had to modify the shroud so that it wasn’t too low. I think it puts a really nice finishing touch on the kitchen and it gets a lot of use these day. It was a pain in the ass to put in though. They are supposed to give you some wiggle room to level the thing, but there was definitely not enough wiggle and it took some time adjusting. Overall I’m really happy with how it looks. I decided on a darker true grey color for the existing brick wall and I’m really happy with the effect of the dark contrast to the white walls and light floor. It took 3 rounds to find the right shade but finally, one that didn’t have browns or purples. Hurray.

The floors were done in a light tan concrete overlayment. I really wanted to have a subtle marbling effect and after some time and doing things over a few times with slight color variation, it was achieved and I couldn’t be happier with the look and the contrast they have with the cabinets.

Above is a view from the dining room and below is a view from the living room. The openness is great when people come over and it seems like we hang out in the kitchen more than the living room.

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Stainless cable railing

I’ve always loved this detail and am fortunate to have installed it a few times before doing it for myself. It looks so simple but it takes sooo much time. I think I have between 40 and 50 hours on this little detail…but the outcome was worth it.

I machined the posts from 1/2″ x 2″ solid aluminum. The posts I have done in the past were are all 4x which is much easier to work with….but for interior I must prefer the aluminum I picked out. I got a deal on the aluminum using rough from the scrap yard. It takes a little time to polish them up but the outcome is brand new posts.

You definitely need a drill press and patience for the machining. All the holes must be perfect or else it will no doubt show. I used 4″ spacing per code. I got all the hardware from Hayn online, it is pricey but I couldn’t find this particular hardware anywhere else.

I topped off the posts with a ipe railing I milled down from a leftover rail cap. Its 1×2 and is plenty strong at 4′ on center. I love the look and I’m really happy with the result. I sprayed the finished posts with a clear matte poly for easy cleaning.

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The ‘Ihopeyoudon’thavealotofmagazines Rack’

I think this rack says one thing….I don’t like clutter, things on top of things on top of things, stuff. So I made this magazine rack and figured if I have more than I can fit in here and what is in the bathroom, its time for recycling.

The rack is made from an old speaker box. My friend was gonna toss it so I decided to make something out of it. It’s made of walnut with very simple butt joints. I kind of like the look of the basic construction and you can’t go wrong with walnut. Probably my simplest project, I had to cut down the one side for a good height, cut a rectangle out of one face, then reuse the end cutoff for my shelf.  Then finish it with some sanding. No purchases necessary, outside of some polyurethane for a nice durable finish. its also doubles as an end table for the side of the couch.

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Modern Venetian

To me, when I think of Venetian plaster, I think of all the Tuscan themed homes with plaster walls of taupe and red. So it took a little research to find out that the finish I was looking for to achieve that smooth wall, semi polished , suedy/marbly look is in fact Venetian plaster.

Once you get to the point where the walls are smooth, you have to select a paint primer color. I wanted a light grey finsh so I chose a color a few shades
darker than my plaster. I used Modern Mastern plaster. The color is not nearly as easy to match as paint so you have to be patient.

Once I was ready to plaster, I applied to coats. First I troweled on a smooth coat at 4×4 sections, then burnished it with my trowel. The burnishing made a lot of lines which I liked but to soften it up and create more variation, I towelled on a second coat which softened it up and gave it a more suede look.

I like the smooth satin sheen finish the plaster creates, but for more sheen I was told you can use clear liquid car polish.

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Coaster table

I like the idea of moveable furniture and being able to move things around and make different combinations. I got the idea for this table from a picture I saw of a bunch of little squares in a cluster, kind of like puzzle pieces. I thought I could make the squares the size of coasters, minimal but still very usable.

I used 1x redwood and birch to make this table. For an easy project, you could use 6×6, cut them to size and attach 1x tops in a contrasted wood. However, i loketo make life complicated and I really liked the variation in grain on the redwood 1x I found. I ripped down 45′ angles both sides on (8) 8′ boards. Then I glued, pinned and cut them down to size.

I played with the configuration a bit to get a pattern I liked. Finally I glued and pinned the cubes together to make three seperate and unique pieces. I’m not a huge fan of clear stained redwood so I stained it walnut which is my favorite of the species.

Some people suggest I put glass on top, but to me I really like the idea of it being floating coasters and I think it would ruin the look with glass.

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Racking wine

This house had a very deep louvered door cabinet in the dining room that didn’t match the existing mid-century style. I thought it would be a great location for a wine bar/cabinet.

I used a combination of walnut and MDF to make the rack. I first framed shelves on both walls that I could then wrap in the walnut and mdf. I first holed sawed the walnut to allow for a typical sized bottle so as not to have too large a hole. I can’t fit the large bottles but that is what the wine refrigerator below is for. In order for the bottles to be held and cradled nicely, I used 3″ ABS plumbing pipe that I cut into quarters. I then screwed these pieces down to the shelves.

After detailng, sealing and painting, I worked on the cabinet portion. It was very challenging to find a nice, clean wine frig for under $800-$1000 that was a built in. Therefore, I had the idea of venting through the back of the cabinet thus allowing me to purchase a much more affordable stand alone unit but that basically looks built-in. I wanted a cabinet that would match in height and width, but without having something custom made, I found an IKEA cabinet that was equal width as the refri but taller. I was able modify the cabinet height to get a height equal to the frig and after some detailing and paint, it was complete.

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To me, the frameless door is the epitome of modern minimalism. I love this detail so when I had the chance, I made it a part of my design. I tried a couple different ways to make this detail but I have to admit the best way (if you have the money) is to buy EasyJambs, they’re a co. out of New Zealand I believe.

But if you’re like me, you scrimp where you can and save a buck. So I ended up trying this two separate way but am ultimately in favor of the second try. First I routed out the outside edge of the door and attached metal flat strap which I then screwed to the wall stud. This didn’t work as smoothly or as quickly as try number 2. On a large 3’0x8’0 entry door I decided to frame it tight to the door frame for a tight fit. Then, I planed an angle off the front edge of the door frame to allow for mesh tape and some wall float.

While installing the door I shimmed and screwed every 6″ or so so get an extremely solid hold. I then filled the gaps with bondo and meshed tape over the top of this. Finally floating the remaining into the wall and painting.

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Linear fireplace

This is my solution for an existing square fireplace. I really wanted the linear look but I wanted to avoid completely demoing the fireplace to allow ventilation for a linear burner.

So I decided to frame out a wall in front of the existing stone fp with steel studs and frame a linear niche to give it the linear effect. This also allowed for an extra deep window sill. I maxed out the size of the burner at 36″ to give the flame a linear look. The niche is assembled with a high density epoxy (that doesn’t like to be cut easily :)

For the face of the fireplace, I drywalled and installed expansion joints to give it an added linear detail. After some smooth coating, I applied a grey venetian plaster with a combination of trowling and toweling to achieve the look I wanted.

Finally I poured in lava rock and topped it with fireglass, which radiates heat much better than wood or firelogs.


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